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Full Tilt Poker Pro Lesson

139

Bursting the SNG Bubble

Peter Feldman

February 21st, 2008

One of the keys to becoming a successful Sit & Go player is learning to master bubble play. The last thing anybody wants is to be the Bubble Boy, which means you need to get the most out of every hand you play during this critical stage. If you make solid moves from good positions and manage your chip stack wisely, you’ll find yourself in the money before you know it.

Let’s say that you’re short-stacked with just five or six big blinds. How you play your hand in this situation depends less on your cards and more on your position and the size of the other short stacks at the table. For example, you’re in the small blind and the hand is folded around to you. If the big blind doesn’t have you covered by very much, it’s time to jam. This play makes it really hard for him to call because he’s risking his tournament in a very tenuous spot. You put him in a position where he’s the one who has to call you, and that’s a big advantage.

Now let’s change things up a little. Say you’re sitting on about eight big bets on the button and the chip leader is in the big blind. If the action is folded to you in this situation, you can be much more selective about the hands you play. You still have plenty of chips to work with before the blinds come back around, which means you can afford to try and pick your spots. Personally, I’d fold hands worse than Q-10 here, but I’d probably play KJ, KQ, any Ace, and all pocket pairs.

If you’re sitting on just four or five big blinds in this same situation, you’ll have to open up your game a little and play more hands. You’ve got to take some chances here and get your chips in, even if you may be no better than 50-50. Waiting isn’t an option because the blinds will eat you alive if you let them.

If you’re playing a medium-size stack, you have more room to play, but still have to be careful about when – and from where – you put your chips in the middle. Making a standard 3x or 4x raise with 15 or 16 blinds can still be risky because there’s a good chance a bigger stack will re-raise and try to force you all-in before the flop. You really can’t afford to make that call without a premium hand like Aces or Kings.

You definitely don’t want to call with something like AK or AQ because you’re just a coin-flip against any pair and are dominated by pocket Aces or Kings. Folding here is a smarter move, especially if there’s a short stack left to play behind you who is likely to call with a much wider range of hands and give you a better shot of making the money.

Of course, nothing is more comforting than having the big stack when you’re sitting on the bubble. As the chip leader, you can practice selective aggression and apply pressure to the smaller stacks. You especially want to focus on the players in second and third place, as they aren’t going to want to put their chips at unnecessary risk.

Because the shorter stacks are going to try to double up through you, you need to be careful about making loose calls just because you think you can afford them. For example, let’s say the small stack raises 5x the big blind from the button and the small blind folds. You’re in the big blind and it’s only four more bets for you to call, which means your odds are slightly less than 2-1. While calling here may in fact be the right decision, it’s not automatic as far as I’m concerned.

I recommend taking a few seconds to really think through the situation, even if you’re holding a pretty strong hand like A-8 or up, KQ, KJ, or any pocket pair. Think about your opponent and how he’s been playing. If he raises every time he’s in that spot, widen your calling range. But if he’s a particularly good Sit & Go player or playing tight, he may not play many hands and you shouldn’t call as frequently.

More often than not when I’m the big stack in this situation, I’m not just flat calling here. Instead, I’m moving all-in. This is particularly effective because it puts all of the other players at the table to a tough decision. Again, the players in second and third aren’t likely to get involved without huge hands, which lets me isolate the smaller stack.

In the end, winning a SNG is about using whatever edge you’ve got. When you’re down to the final four, take advantage of position and play your stack aggressively. Know when to back off and when to go for it. You’ll still be at the table – and in the money – when the bubble bursts.

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Slow Playing

When you get a MONSTER hand, you should NOT slow play it.

Here's why:

"Slow playing" means that you don't bet very much, or bet
nothing at all, in hopes that your opponent makes a big bet
or tries to bluff.

For instance, if you got two Aces before the flop and only
called the big blind, you would be "slow playing" your Aces.

Or if you flopped a straight and just "checked", you would
be slow playing your straight.

Make sense?

The problem is, most amateurs will slow play their big
hands... trying to perform the famous check-raise
maneuver... or trying to "trap" their opponents...

But generally speaking, this is NOT a smart strategy... for
two reasons:

1. Because many poker players will see right through you...
and fold the hand as soon as you make your move.

2. Because you won't win as much money when you slow play
big hands versus betting them.

Let's talk about the first reason...

The fact is, slow playing big hands will NOT confuse your
opponents.

On the contrary, it will actually give them a SOLID READ on
you.

Why?

BECAUSE MOST PLAYERS SLOW PLAY MONSTER HANDS.

That's just the way it is.

You may think you're being SLY, but you're really just being
STUPID.

I think it's actually human INSTINCTS to slow play big
hands...

Think about it. When someone gets a big hand, what are they
thinking in their heads?

They SHOULD be thinking... "How can I get the most money
possible out of this pot?"

But what they are REALLY thinking is... "How can I make sure
everyone doesn't fold and this great hand doesn't go to
waste?"

It's the truth.

Especially since it will often take HUNDREDS of hands before
you catch a monster.

And that's the REAL reason why people slow play big hands...

Because they're SCARED TO DEATH that if they make a bet,
everyone will fold.

So the point is, it is NOT unique to slow play a monster...
in fact, it's what MOST card players do. Especially
amateurs.

Now let's look at the second reason why slow playing a big
hand is a bad idea... and that is:

YOU WON'T MAKE AS MUCH MONEY.

The fact is, when you hit a monster, you should bet it. It's
that simple.

Even if you REALLY ARE thinking to yourself, "How can I get
the most money out of this pot?", the answer is to bet it.

Not slow play it.

You'll win more chips and make more money by betting your
big hands... especially when you look at it over a long term
perspective.

Let me show you three reasons why:

1. Usually, one of your opponents will have SOMETHING...
whether it's a bottom pair, wired pair, straight draw...
whatever.

This means that you'll usually get one or more callers for
your monster hand... which is "sure money" going into the
pot that you're about to win...

2. When you slow play big hands, you're opening yourself up
for BAD BEATS. You shouldn't give your opponents the
opportunity to see free cards.

When you let them see free cards, you're just increasing the
odds that someone catches a lucky draw... or the one
"miracle" card that can bust your hand.

Betting your big hand, instead of letting your opponent get
free cards, will narrow down your chances of a bad beat.

3. Your opponents won't see it coming.

Since most players slow play monsters, your opponents will
often put you on a BLUFF when you bet your big hand.

And if they think you're bluffing, they'll try to come back
over the top of you with a raise.

This, of course, gives you yet ANOTHER way to make more
money from your hand...

Now... let me talk about the EXCEPTION to this rule. And
that is when you get a monster that is SO UNBELIEVABLE...
AND you sense complete weakness at the table.

The most common example of this is 4-of-a-kind.

For instance...

Let's say the flop came out 8,8,2 and you've got pocket 8's.
The other two players check to you.

In this case, it will be smart to just check your big hand,
rather than betting.

BUT, you're not really "slow playing" it.

What you're ACTUALLY doing is just letting your opponents
"catch up" to you.

Since you know the 8's couldn't have helped either of your
opponents, you want to make sure a turn card comes out...
and maybe even a river card... in hopes that someone catches
SOMETHING.

If the turn card is a face card, that's good news for you.
Because it means that someone might have made top pair and
will be willing to give you some action in the hand.

But besides that, you should NOT slow play your big hands.

Now let's see a real-life instance where this strategy
helped me make more money at the poker table.

Just the other night I was at the riverboat and got dealt AQ.
My positioning wasn't good, but it was the first decent hand
I'd seen in awhile, so I raised the pot to 1,500 in chips.

Only one player called me... the man on the button. This guy
(we'll call him "Mike") is a very good card player. He goes
to the casinos every single night... 7 days a week...
grinding it out and making his living.

He's one of the only players at this table that I generally
avoid going heads-up with, actually.

So anyway... the flop comes out, and it's:

Q-Q-3

I've flopped a set with an Ace kicker.

I'm first to act. So what do I do?

Most players would slow play... but not me. I come out
firing.

I hesitate for like two seconds and then push in 4,000 in
chips.

Mike is thinking there is no possible way I'd bet trips like
that... so he's probably putting me on a high wired pair
(but not Queens).

Plus, he might think I'm just representing my pre-flop raise
with this bet...

So instead of folding, Mike decides to represent the Queens
out there... and act as if HE has the trip queens.

"Make it 10,000", he says aggressively.

Of course, now I've got Mike EXACTLY where I want him...

I call his bet.

The turn card comes... it's a 10.

I check... because I know Mike is going to make a big move
on me.

"Make it 10,000", he says again.

And I call again.

It turns out Mike is sitting on K-10... which means he's got
a pair. This will give him even MORE confidence to try to
buy this pot.

Now that I've called his bets, however, he's probably
thinking I have Kings or Aces. Which means the only way he
can win this pot is to scare me away.

The river hits... and it's a 3. Which gives me the full
house.

I check again, and Mike goes ALL IN with his huge chip
stack... thinking he can bully me out of the hand.

I call... and I take down a MASSIVE pot from the seasoned
rounder.

And it all started because I DIDN'T slow play my trips. Mike
didn't put me on the three Queens and was willing to push
his entire stack into the middle to try to win that pot.

Of course... that won't happen every time you get a big
hand. And trying to confuse your opponent is definitely NOT
the only reason to not slow play your big hands.

The reality is, when you bet your big hands you'll
CONSISTENTLY win more pots and make MORE MONEY playing
poker...

----------------Roy Rounder----------------

Ultimate Bet...Must play here

Roy Rounder: Represent The Flop!

You're probably familiar with the term "represent the flop".
But do you know what it REALLY means?

And do you know how to PROPERLY represent the flop in order
to win more chips?

Most players think that REPRESENTING THE FLOP just means
betting and acting in a way as if the cards on the board
HELPED your hand...

Although this definition is ACCURATE, it's much too
simplistic to add any benefit to your game.

Representing the flop is in fact a very in-depth strategy
that is CRUCIAL to pro-level Texas Holdem poker...

First, let's look at WHY you should represent the flop:

The primary reason is to find out WHERE YOU'RE AT IN A HAND.

In other words, you want to learn how strong and how weak
the OTHER players at the table are. And the only way to do
this is through BETTING.

If you only check, check, call, call... then you will NEVER
become a good poker player. Never.

You've got to bet... and PRETEND that the community cards
helped you. If someone has a weak hand, they will be forced
to fold.

If someone has a mediocre hand, they will probably fold
too... because you're "representing" that you have something
good.

And if a player has a STRONG or VERY STRONG hand, they will
either call you or raise your bet.

So based on what everyone does, you can find out if you have
a chance at winning the pot, if you can bet other players
out, or if you should just fold. All information you
WOULDN'T have known otherwise.

Frequently representing the flop is an AGGRESSIVE style of
play. If you do it, you'll get a lot of action at the
table... especially after the flop.

For example, if you come out firing after the flop three out
of four hands, your opponents will begin calling your bets
and giving you action... because they KNOW you don't have a
great hand EVERY SINGLE TIME.

This comes in handy when you hit a MONSTER... like when you
flop a set or a flush or something. You don't have to worry
about everyone folding to you.

But even more important than getting lots of action,
representing the flop will help you STEAL a lot of pots over
the course of every card game.

And when YOU control the action and the betting, you'll find
it much easier to steal blinds and pots after the flop.

And trust me, THESE SMALL POTS ADD UP... FAST. If you only
go for the "big pots" in a poker game or tournament, you
won't last long. You've got to stick your neck out there and
go for the SMALLER POTS too...

OK, so representing the flop is a USEFUL and IMPORTANT TOOL
in no-limit Texas Holdem poker.

Now you've got to learn how to represent the flop the RIGHT
WAY...

I have FIVE BASIC RULES when it comes to representing the
flop... each rule gets progressively more complicated as
they go on.

But trust me, if you master these rules, you'll DEFINITELY
be on your way to higher "poker profits" and winnings.

OK, so here they are. These are my FIVE RULES:


RULE #1: When you represent the flop, don't act weak by only
betting the MINIMUM amount... BUT, don't bet so much that it
can burn you.

This is kind of like the "not too hot, not too cold"
principle.

You see... when you represent the flop, you've got to accept
the fact that you will likely NOT get the chips back that
you're betting.

I mean, obviously you want to WIN, don't get me wrong. BUT,
if someone has a great hand and you're representing the flop
WITHOUT a great hand, then there's a good chance you'll have
to fold soon.

So when you make a representation bet, do NOT bet so much
that you'll feel "pot committed".

On the other hand, don't bet too LITTLE. When you bet too
little, your opponents will see right through it. And it
won't be enough to scare the mediocre hands away.

For example... let's say you've got 9-8 suited and the flop
hits K-8-2 and you're first to act. You don't want to CHECK
because you know the guy after you will bet if you do.

So you REPRESENT THE FLOP by throwing out a bet...

If no one has the King, everyone will probably fold to your
bet. Even if someone DOES have the King, they may fold if
they don't have a decent kicker.

The key is you must make sure you BET ENOUGH. If you only
bet the minimum amount here... someone with A-4 might call
the bet, simply because the pot odds are in their favor. And
if the Ace hits on the turn, you're in trouble.

So always be sure to bet BIG ENOUGH to scare out the bad and
mediocre hands, but SMALL ENOUGH to not get in trouble if
you lose the chips.


RULE #2: Whenever possible, represent the flop when you have
OUTS.

This is a strategy most players don't quite "get" until
you've been playing poker for a LONG time.

Here's the thing:

If you represent the flop frequently every single time you
play Texas Holdem, you want the odds to be as much in your
favor as possible.

In the scenario above, for instance, representing the flop
with middle pair is a good move. Because you have some OUTS.
If another 8 hits on the turn or river, you're going to have
three-of-a-kind.

Obviously, hitting the eight is NOT likely (about 8.42%).
But there's STILL A CHANCE, and that's what is important.

Think about it:

Let's say you have just a 5% chance of hitting one of your
OUTS that would cause you to have the best hand at the
table.

Well, if you represent the flop fifty times and get a caller
TWENTY times, that means you'll MAKE your hand (on average)
one time out of these twenty. And when you DO make your
hand, you'll BUST your opponent and win a ton of chips.

Make sense?

This is kind of a MENTAL DISTINCTION that separates the pros
from the wannabes. Pros think about the LONG TERM ODDS of
playing. They don't base their decisions on situational
circumstances alone. They base them on WHAT WORKS OVER THE
LONG TERM.

That's how you develop a CONSISTENT winning career.

Because as you'll see in the next rule, you don't want to
CONTINUE to represent the flop if people stay in the hand
with you... unless you're confident that you can get them to
fold.

But usually, if someone calls or raises, you want to "let
up". Don't risk more chips when someone's got you beat.

So by representing the flop when you have OUTS you'll open
yourself up to the chance of MAKING YOUR HAND on the turn
(or sometimes river).


RULE #3: If you get raised, muck it.

All of these rules are general in nature... especially this
one. Obviously you don't want to ALWAYS FOLD every time
someone makes a raise.

BUT USUALLY, if you represent the flop with a bet and
someone comes back over the top of you, that opponent will
MOST LIKELY have a strong hand (maybe even a monster).

It's not logical to continue to bluff at the pot if you're
up against a surefire winning hand. You'll lose too many
chips that way.

That's the downside of being an aggressive player: You've
got to give up and cut your losses quite often. Discipline
yourself to do it.


RULE #4: Change gears with your betting amounts.

As we discussed earlier, one of the benefits to representing
the flop is that opponents will give you more ACTION during
the game because they'll "catch on" to your aggressive
style.

That does NOT mean, however, that you should become
PREDICTABLE. Being predictable is a recipe for disaster.

And that's why you've got to "change gears" and "mix it up"
with your betting.

For example... in our scenario where you made a bet with
your 9-8 suited (middle pair), let's say your bet was for 50
and then someone RAISED YOU to 200.

Your opponent probably has the King and a good kicker...
maybe even two pair. So you fold your middle pair with a
loss of only 50 chips.

NOW... when you fold, everyone at the table will SEE that
you just made a bet and then folded to a raise. This will
tell them that you were betting WITHOUT a good hand after
the flop.

Now... let's say a few hands later the flop comes out 5-A-Q
and you're second to act and you've got pocket deuces.

Your first opponent checks.

Now, although you know someone at the table probably has you
beat right now, you're not sure if someone has the Ace...
because there weren't any pre-flop raises.

So you REPRESENT THE FLOP (and the Ace) by betting.
(Remember, you also have outs here... if a two comes you'll
make trips.)

The key is to NOT BET 50 again, as you did with your eights
just a few hands ago. If you bet 50 again... or always bet
50 when you represent the flop... your opponents will know
exactly what you're doing and read right through you.

If Blake... who's sitting to your left... is only holding
the Queen, he's going to fold if he thinks you've got the
Ace.

But if he thinks you're just REPRESENTING the flop, he will
call your bet. And you DO NOT want that to happen (because
his Queens are better than your two's).

So instead of betting 50 again, you bet 150 this time. This
way you stay out of any PATTERNS that will give away your
hand... and increase the odds that everyone will put you on
the Ace and fold.


RULE #5: After you get better at representing the flop,
INTENTIONALLY STOP mixing up your bets in order to trap your
opponents.

This is a "tricky" play that works very well against
intermediate poker players.

Here's how it goes:

When you represent the flop and get "caught" in your
semi-bluff, use the event to YOUR ADVANTAGE to bust your
opponents.

Let's use the example from before with the 9-8 suited:

You got middle pair. You bet 50. Your opponent raised. And
then you folded.

Well, let's say you represented the flop AGAIN a few hands
later with a bet of 50. And then you got caught AGAIN when
your opponent raised you... and you were forced to fold.

After watching this happen two or three times, your
opponents will suddenly think they're geniuses and that
they've got you "figured out".

They'll think, "Woa, when he bets 50 on the flop he doesn't
have anything... and all I have to do is raise in order to
scare him away."

And of course, you're doing this ON PURPOSE in order to trap
your opponents.

Let's say a few hands later you get dealt pocket fours. The
flop comes: 4-7-J.

You've flopped trips. Now what?

Well, since you've built a reputation for betting on the
flop no matter what happens, you can feel safe betting and
you'll probably get action.

But what KIND of action are you looking for?

You want to get as many chips into this pot as possible. So
you take advantage of the "trap play" that you've created
and you bet 50... again.

This time, your opponents think they've got you figured out.
They think to themselves, "That flop didn't help him one
bit, he's just up to his old ways."

So your opponent RAISES you.

And that's where you GET REWARDED for the trap you set up.

Now you can either re-raise, or maybe call and hope that
your opponent tries buying the pot again after the turn
card...

It doesn't really matter. Because as long as there aren't
any draws out there, you can feel safe in knowing that
you'll win the hand and a nice pot either way.

It's amazing to me how easily players will fall into this
trap. (Especially with online poker.)

But remember... only use this trap play AFTER you have
mastered the first four rules for representing the flop. And
be sure that you aim the play at intermediate players, as
they'll fall for it the quickest.

There's one last component I want to mention here that
relates to our discussion of representing the flop... and
that's what you should do when you make a PRE-flop raise.

My technique is simple:

If I raised before the flop, I will come out betting AFTER
the flop... no matter what hits.

The reasoning is simple...

For starters, NOT betting after the flop is like waving a
red flag and TELLING your opponents that the flop didn't
help you.

If you represent the flop after your pre-flop raise, your
opponents won't know what to put you on. They'll be more
likely to fold.

And using this strategy over and over and over again pays
off in the long run. Because after awhile your opponents
will catch on...

And this benefits you in three ways:

1. You'll get more action when you catch a BIG hand.

2. Your opponents will fold more frequently to your pre-flop
raises because they know you're going to bet after the flop
as well. This gives you the opportunity to steal more
blinds.

3. Your opponents will be easier to read. When they have a
good hand they won't be afraid of you and they'll come back
over the top with a raise...

This lets you know that they've got you beat and that you
should just minimize your losses and fold.

Learning how to PROPERLY represent the flop is a crucial
aspect of Texas Holdem...
ROY ROUNDER

MY EBAY Page

Got lots of items for sale check em out Jcheek13

Look at the times of these hands

PokerStars Game #14822205969: Tournament #74499100, $10+$1 Hold'em No Limit - Level V (75/150) - 2008/01/25 - 20:17:09 (ET)
Table '74499100 232' 9-max Seat #6 is the button
Seat 1: m_darcus (22680 in chips)
Seat 2: TTCHAE (1008 in chips)
Seat 3: mc_spiffy (4050 in chips) is sitting out
Seat 4: juliesails (3750 in chips)
Seat 5: strijkijzer1 (15011 in chips)
Seat 6: KarmaKrazy13 (7225 in chips)
Seat 7: jwc44 (2670 in chips)
Seat 8: madasacow (7924 in chips)
Seat 9: Aggieland81 (7553 in chips)
jwc44: posts small blind 75
madasacow: posts big blind 150
*** HOLE CARDS ***
Dealt to KarmaKrazy13 [Ah As]
Aggieland81: folds
m_darcus: raises 300 to 450
TTCHAE: folds
mc_spiffy: folds
juliesails: folds
strijkijzer1: folds
KarmaKrazy13: raises 550 to 1000
jwc44: folds
madasacow: folds
m_darcus: calls 550
*** FLOP *** [Th 8d 7d]
m_darcus: checks
KarmaKrazy13: bets 3000
m_darcus: folds
KarmaKrazy13 collected 2225 from pot
KarmaKrazy13: doesn't show hand
*** SUMMARY ***
Total pot 2225 | Rake 0
Board [Th 8d 7d]
Seat 1: m_darcus folded on the Flop
Seat 2: TTCHAE folded before Flop (didn't bet)
Seat 3: mc_spiffy folded before Flop (didn't bet)
Seat 4: juliesails folded before Flop (didn't bet)
Seat 5: strijkijzer1 folded before Flop (didn't bet)
Seat 6: KarmaKrazy13 (button) collected (2225)
Seat 7: jwc44 (small blind) folded before Flop
Seat 8: madasacow (big blind) folded before Flop
Seat 9: Aggieland81 folded before Flop (didn't bet)

PokerStars Game #14822226719: Tournament #74499100, $10+$1 Hold'em No Limit - Level V (75/150) - 2008/01/25 - 20:18:06 (ET)
Table '74499100 232' 9-max Seat #7 is the button
Seat 1: m_darcus (21680 in chips)
Seat 2: TTCHAE (1008 in chips)
Seat 3: mc_spiffy (4050 in chips) is sitting out
Seat 4: juliesails (3750 in chips)
Seat 5: strijkijzer1 (15011 in chips)
Seat 6: KarmaKrazy13 (8450 in chips)
Seat 7: jwc44 (2595 in chips)
Seat 8: madasacow (7774 in chips)
Seat 9: Aggieland81 (7553 in chips)
madasacow: posts small blind 75
Aggieland81: posts big blind 150
*** HOLE CARDS ***
Dealt to KarmaKrazy13 [Ah As]
m_darcus: folds
TTCHAE: folds
mc_spiffy: folds
juliesails: raises 150 to 300
strijkijzer1: folds
KarmaKrazy13: raises 500 to 800
jwc44: folds
madasacow: calls 725
Aggieland81: folds
juliesails: calls 500
*** FLOP *** [6d Tc 5h]
madasacow: checks
juliesails: bets 900
KarmaKrazy13: raises 1200 to 2100
madasacow: raises 4874 to 6974 and is all-in
juliesails: calls 2050 and is all-in
KarmaKrazy13: calls 4874
*** TURN *** [6d Tc 5h] [Ac]
*** RIVER *** [6d Tc 5h Ac] [Qc]
*** SHOW DOWN ***
madasacow: shows [Td Th] (three of a kind, Tens)
KarmaKrazy13: shows [Ah As] (three of a kind, Aces)
KarmaKrazy13 said, "OMG!!"
KarmaKrazy13 collected 8048 from side pot
juliesails: shows [Qs Ts] (two pair, Queens and Tens)
KarmaKrazy13 collected 11400 from main pot
jono187 is connected
*** SUMMARY ***
Total pot 19448 Main pot 11400. Side pot 8048. | Rake 0
Board [6d Tc 5h Ac Qc]
Seat 1: m_darcus folded before Flop (didn't bet)
Seat 2: TTCHAE folded before Flop (didn't bet)
Seat 3: mc_spiffy folded before Flop (didn't bet)
Seat 4: juliesails showed [Qs Ts] and lost with two pair, Queens and Tens
Seat 5: strijkijzer1 folded before Flop (didn't bet)
Seat 6: KarmaKrazy13 showed [Ah As] and won (19448) with three of a kind, Aces
Seat 7: jwc44 (button) folded before Flop (didn't bet)
Seat 8: madasacow (small blind) showed [Td Th] and lost with three of a kind, Tens
Seat 9: Aggieland81 (big blind) folded before Flop

Playing Six-Handed SNGs

Most people are familiar with the differences between one-table Sit & Go tournaments (SNGs) and other forms of poker. Because these tournaments only pay the top three finishers at a nine-handed table, the standard strategy is to play conservatively until the tournament becomes short-handed and then become more aggressive during short-handed play.

Many newer SNG players favor these nine-handed tournaments because the blinds only increase every six minutes, providing a good amount of play. While these are great tournaments, I also encourage people to try other types of SNGs, including turbos where the blinds increase every three minutes, and six-handed games where you start off playing short-handed and only the top-two finishers are paid.

For really fast-paced excitement, however, I play six-handed turbo SNGs where I’m facing both short tables and quick blinds. The structure of these SNGs forces me to play each hand more carefully as the combination of fast blinds and short-handed play means one mistake can be crippling or even fatal. They also let me finish in time for dinner.

Succeeding in these tournaments requires making some adjustments to your standard SNG strategy. As with any short-handed table, one of the most important things you need to do is open up your starting hand requirements – but not too much. You shouldn’t be playing trash, especially in early position, but you should be willing to see more flops in hopes of hitting a big hand. That said, you shouldn’t play with the intention of stealing blinds – especially in the early going – as there’s just not enough value in that play to make it worthwhile.

This leads me to the biggest mistake I see many people make in these kinds of games, which is playing too loose. For some reason, people think they have to go crazy at short-handed tables in an effort to pick up chips early on. Generally, one or two players go broke right away and, all of a sudden, you have four people left at the table with only two spots getting paid.

Once you’ve lost a couple players, there’s usually one person who’s built up a big chip stack and plays too aggressively in an effort to bully the rest of the table. You have to hang tough in this situation, even if you’re sitting on just around 1,000 chips. The bully wants to double you up, so you might as well let him.

If you are lucky enough to double up or accumulate chips early on, don’t give them up easily. Instead of siphoning off your chips by calling raises out of position or trying to steal too much, pick your spots carefully and continue to play tight, aggressive poker.

Because these short-handed tournaments only pay out two places, you should begin applying more pressure on your competition as you approach the bubble. Your goal should be to finish first, as you’ll earn three times your buy-in as opposed to just doubling your buy-in for second place. Look for the player who is just seeking to squeeze their way into the money and attack their stack as much as possible in order to force their hand and hopefully, induce a mistake. At this point, the quickly rising blinds should force the bubble boy to push all-in with a less than stellar hand.

Overall, it’s a simple but effective strategy. Play relatively tight and put yourself in a position to double up through the table bully in the early to middle stages, and then attack when you reach the bubble. This will put you in position to make the money and play heads-up for the win.

Scott Fischman

New Roy Rounder Blog

I have a new idea that I wanted to share with you.

I call it the "All-In Factor".

No limit Texas Holdem poker is the game of choice for most
card players these days... I know I certainly prefer it. But
a lot of my opponents don't know how to truly USE and
LEVERAGE the "All-In Factor" to their advantage.

What I mean is, going "all-in" is SO POWERFUL and SO
IMPORTANT, yet most players don't know the right times to
make this bold move. They just wait for the "nuts" to come
along and THEN they go all-in. Make sense?

I'd like to share with you some of my thoughts on how, when,
where, and why to go "all-in" against your opponents.

Not only is this move what makes no limit poker so EXCITING,
but this is also the KEY DISTINCTION between limit and no
limit Holdem... and it's why no limit requires more of a
"ballsy" personality.

Contrary to popular belief, the All-In Factor actually adds
MORE SKILL to the game of poker... just not in the sense of
math or odds.

Instead, "all-in" requires the skills of PSYCHOLOGY,
intimidation, and bluffing.

When you learn the right times to go all-in, you'll have a
consistent EDGE over your opponents... and THAT, my friend,
will help you beat the game over and over and over (even
when you don't have good cards).

OK, let's get started.

One of the core principles of poker is that it's always much
easier to BET than it is to CALL.

I mean think about it: You can make a BET without actually
having good cards-- you might be on a bluff... you might be
"representing" the board... you might just have middle
pair... and so on.

But to CALL a bet, you want to have a strong hand. Because
now your OPPONENT is representing good  cards. If you don't
have a read on him, then it's going to be harder to CALL his
bet.

I look at it this way: It's much easier to SHOOT a bullet
than to DODGE a bullet (and I'm not talking about Aces).

That's one of the reasons why I like to go with an
aggressive style of play. I win a lot more pots even when I
DON'T have good cards... because my opponents are forced to
fold to me.

Anyway... this idea that it's easier to BET than CALL
couldn't be more true than with ALL-IN BETS.

It is TEN TIMES EASIER to push all your money in the middle
than it is to CALL an all-in bet.

When your opponent goes all-in, he has put you to a decision
for all your chips. Your life in the game/tournament could
be OVER with just this one pot.

In order to call, you must be CONFIDENT that you have him
beat.

But in order to make an all-in bet yourself, you just need
to be confident that your opponent will FOLD... or that you
have him beat.

This gives the person MAKING the all-in bet the advantage
every time.

And that leads to our second main principle, which is this:

If you don't risk chips, you can't win chips.

Period.

Now obviously, your strategy should be to MINIMIZE your risk
and MAXIMIZE your winnings...

But no limit Texas Holdem gives you the unique opportunity
to win big pots with all-in bets, even when you don't have
the best hand.

The All-In Factor is what allows you to BULLY your opponents
and take a DOMINATING position.

One of the best times to go all-in is to STEAL a pot from
your opponent... but when you steal pots, you must be sure
the hand meets these conditions:

1. You want OUTS. If your opponent calls, there should be
cards left in the deck that can help you still win the hand.
Even if the odds are not good, you want outs.

2. You must have a solid read on your opponent. If you're
stealing a pot, you must be confident the other player is
going to fold.

3. You want good positioning. This isn't as important as the
first two conditions, but positioning is what usually allows
you to get a read on your opponents.

Let's look at an example...

Say you've get dealt 8-7 of diamonds while you're on the
button. That means you've got a "hidden hand" with the best
positioning.

Three players limp-in and the action is to you.

You raise the pot to $15... a nice raise in this $1-2 no
limit cash game.

The small and big blinds fold.

But then Brian, who's under the gun, comes back over the top
of you and raises it to $30.

Ouch. You forgot that Brian is a smart player who doesn't
play anything but premium hands while under the gun. He
limped-in, which was the "red flag" that he had something
good.

Anyway, the action goes around and Jared-- the guy to your
right-- ALSO calls the bet of $30.

So it's $15 more to call... and the pot size is already up
to $80. With your positioning and the pot odds, you decide
to call and see a flop.

You don't like the way this hand is going so far, because
now you have $30 invested with just suited-connectors... and
you're putting Brian on a hand like A-K, A-Q, or maybe
something like pocket Jacks. If he had anything better he
would have been more aggressive than simply raising $15.

OK, so the flop comes out:

3s-4s-5s

Wow. Interesting flop. 3-4-5 of spades.

Brian bets $10 into the pot. You know this flop didn't help
him one bit... the only reason he's making this small bet is
because he raised before the flop. You can tell right away
that he doesn't like what he sees on the board.

Jared mucks his hand.

So now the action is to you. There's $90 in the middle.
You've got about $350 more in chips, and Brian has about
$225.

THIS is one of those times to consider going all-in.

You don't have a single spade... and that's not good. But
you do have the gutshot straight draw. There's a 16.47%
chance that a six will hit on the turn or river.

But that's not why you're going all-in. You want to make a
move at this pot because you've VERY confident that Brian is
going to fold.

For all Brian knows, you could have two spades, or the
straight, or a straight draw and flush draw, or even a
straight flush.

The truth is, Brian probably has the best hand right now
with two overcards... he may even have a high spade. But
that won't be enough for him to justify calling an ALL-IN
bet.

Brian's smart... there are simply too many cards out there
that can beat him. So you go all-in and he mucks it...
making you $90 richer.

When stealing a pot like this, be sure it's worth the risk.
The fewer players in the hand, and the more money in the
middle, the better the payoff is to you.

The key is knowing that your opponent is going to fold. If
you're up against someone who's too smart (or too dumb) to
muck it, then you're in trouble.

That's where the OUTS come in.

Let's say Brian looked at you and said, "Well, I know you've
got the flush, but I can't lay this down." And then he
called... flipping over an Ace of hearts and an Ace of
clubs.

Now you're in trouble, of course. But at least you left
yourself some outs... you've got a 16.47% chance of hitting
that six. And you've also got the slight chance that two
more spades come out or the board makes a straight (which
would be a split pot).

And last but not least... if everything goes wrong and you
lose this pot to Brian, you've still got $125 in chips.

Which brings me to my next point... and that is the SIZE OF
YOUR STACK.

Stack size is an extremely important component of the All-In
Factor. Here's what I mean:

First of all, if you're going to play a hand aggressively,
you always know that it COULD lead to all-in bets. That's
why you want to go after players with SHORTER stacks than
you.

If the worst case scenario occurs and you lose an all-in
match, at least you're not out of the game.

This has a secondary benefit, too...

If a player has fewer chips, he'll be easier to "push
around" and "bully". That lowers your risk further.

Of course... this gets more complicated.

You want to be very careful about stealing pots or making
stone cold bluffs against anyone who's "short-stacked".

If you've got $400 in chips and your opponent has $40 in
chips, you wouldn't make the same kind of bluff as you did
against Brian in the example.

A player who's short-stacked is ITCHING to move all his
chips in as soon as he picks up ANY type of hand. So you
can't bluff him out of the pot.

What you CAN do, however, is put the short-stack all-in
BEFORE THE FLOP when you have something decent... therefore
putting him to a decision for all his chips. If he calls, it
will probably be a loose call, and you have a chance at
winning a good pot.

If he folds, you win the blinds. And if he wins, you only
lose 1/10 of your stack.

Let's look at another quick example. Say Brian has $40 in
chips and you've got $400 in chips. You're third to act
before the flop, which isn't very good positioning. Brian's
second to act.

Brian goes all-in with his short stack. You look down to see
pocket Kings. You know you've got him beat. What should you
do?

The answer is NOT to call. Instead, you should ALSO go
all-in. With Kings, you don't want multiple players in the
hand seeing a flop... You just want to take Brian's $40 and
the blinds that are already in there.

You must make a move to scare out the remaining three
players behind you... otherwise there's a good chance you'll
get run down.

Let's say you just CALL, and then Drew also calls with an
A-8 suited.

The flop hits: A-4-J

And now you lost the hand... because Drew caught his top
pair.

But if you had moved all-in before the flop, Drew and
everyone else would have folded. Then it'd just be you and
Brian... as Brian flips over his losing pocket 8's.

That brings up another good point:

Players will make LOOSE CALLS to all-in bets when there's a
chance at eliminating someone from the table.

This is most relevant in tournament play.

You see, eliminating someone from the table means each
player is CLOSER to finishing in the money...

So it's in everyone's BEST INTERESTS to "knock off" the
short stack.

This is something you can use to your advantage when YOU are
playing short-stacked. If you pick up a monster hand, you
can be assured that you'll get lots of action with it... and
if it holds, you might even TRIPLE up (or better).

But that's also a reason why you cannot make an all-in BLUFF
when you're short-stacked. You can't bluff anyone out of a
pot because you don't have enough chips to scare them off.

"All-in" is only intimidating when you have lots of chips.
When you DON'T have lots of chips, your opponents will be
HAPPY you're all-in... because it means you're that much
closer to getting eliminated.

Even if you're NOT short-stacked, this principle is true
when facing players who have a LOT more chips than you.
Let's say you're 4th in chips at a 6-man table... with about
$80 in front of you.

Don't try to bluff at a pot with an "all-in" against the
chip leader, who's got $400. He can afford to make a call
with just a mediocre hand or a draw.

For him, $80 won't hurt his stack much... and the chance of
knocking you out is worth the risk.

So when WOULD BE the right time to go all-in when you're
short-stacked?

The obvious answer is "when you have a hand". But as you
know, you won't always get good cards.

As a general rule, I "make my stand" when I'm getting down
to about ten times the big blind. Lower than that will be
too short-stacked to make bluffs that will scare anyone out
of the pot.

With more than 10x the big blind, I'm usually able to steal
some blinds and get myself back in the game.

If I run into a monster, or get outdrawn, oh well. There's
nothing I can do.

But usually, since I make my stand based on chip stacks,
positioning, and sensing weakness, I WON'T get any callers
to my bold "all-in" and I'll rake in the pot.

This is also one of my fundamental techniques for not
getting "blinded to death"... and for staying in a game even
when I'm NOT catching good cards.

OK, let's review:

The "All-In Factor" is a key technique for no limit Texas
Holdem. Not only does it separate limit from no-limit... but
it also separates the "men from the boys", so to speak.

When you go all-in WITHOUT a monster, be sure you have OUTS.
These will come in handy over the long term.

Don't bluff against someone who's got way more chips than
you... and don't bluff when you're the short-stack at the
table.

If you're getting low on chips, make your all-in move when
you're getting down to about 10x the big blind.

If the short-stacked player at the table goes all-in and
you've got a big hand, don't CALL. Be sure YOU go all-in
too... that way you scare the other players out and decrease
the chances of getting run down.

Remember... it's always easier to BET than CALL, and you can
never win what you don't put into the middle.

The All-In Factor is a strategic maneuver that you can use
to "own" your opponents and win more money at the poker
tables.

But it's not the only one.

There are TONS of strategies, tricks, "plays", and
step-by-step techniques in the game of no limit poker.
_Roy Rounder_

How To Win Without Great Cards

331 to 1.

Those are the odds AGAINST getting dealt an Ace-King suited
before the flop.

220 to 1.

Those are the odds AGAINST getting pocket Aces before the
flop.

Monster hands like these are GREAT when you catch them...
and you'll definitely have a good shot at raking in a killer
pot.

But the fact is, when you play poker you WON'T catch
monsters very often.

The same is true with wired pairs and suited connectors...

When you hit with one of these hands, your opponents will
usually NEVER see it coming...

And once again, you'll rake in a nice pot.

But how many times do you get hands like these AND hit the
right cards?

Not too often.

ANYONE-- no matter what their skill level-- can win a pot
with a monster.

The SECRET to poker success, my friend, is learning how to
win hands WITHOUT having the "nuts" or great cards.

It's what separates the AVERAGE card players from the poker
LEGENDS.

So how do you play hands that are DECENT, but not GREAT?
Hands like Q-J, J-10, 9-10, Q-10, K-10, K-9, and so on...

If you FOLD every time you see cards like these, you're
playing too tight. Because you're going to see these types
of hands A LOT.

To consistently win at Texas Holdem poker, you've got to
learn how to win with hands that AREN'T great.

But how?

I'll tell you how...

The key is POSITIONING.

That's the magic word.

In Texas Holdem, positioning is EVERYTHING...

You can see a hand in one position and the right play is to
FOLD it...

And then see the SAME EXACT HAND in a different position and
the right play is to make a BET.

For example, let's say you're in an 8-player no limit Holdem
game... where the blinds are $1-2.

You're first to act before the flop (a.k.a. "under the gun")
and look down at your cards:

Q-J offsuit.

What do you do?

Playing the hand shouldn't cross your mind.

Calling with a Q-J offsuit can easily turn into TROUBLE when
first to act.

Because SOMEONE at your 8-man table is probably going to
throw out a pre-flop raise.

Think about it...

How many times does the action go COMPLETELY around the
table before the flop without SOMEONE making a raise?

Not too often.

Even if it's just a small $5 raise... you don't want to pay
$7 with your Q-J offsuit just to see the flop.

After all, even if you HIT top pair, you're STILL going to
be one of the first to act, if not THE first. What then?

Your kicker isn't too strong, and you don't have a read on
the other players.

It's just a bad situation to be in...

Which is why I muck "decent" hands like these when I'm under
the gun or in an early position.

And you should too.

Now let's say you're fourth to act before the flop (sixth
position at the table) and you peek down at a Q-10 offsuit.

You're positioning isn't great, but it's not too bad either.

The action is on you to call the $2 big blind...

What do you do?

Instead of mucking, this is where I'd limp in and call the
blind.

The key is to pay $2... don't raise it. You've got a good
chance at seeing the flop for just $2 and you won't have to
act first after the flop hits.

Even if someone throws out a small pre-flop raise, you can
call and see a cheap flop without getting into too much
trouble.

Now let's say you're on the BUTTON (dealer position) with a
Q-J offsuit. Four of your opponents limp-in and the action
is to you.

What's the play?

This is where I'd make a pre-flop raise. Nothing crazy...
just a small $5 that's not going to get me into trouble.

And I'll do this with any good positioning, not just when
I'm on the button...

Here's why:

First, it gets rid of the "crap" hands at the table...

Anytime you can force the scraps at the table to fold, your
odds of winning the pot increase.

(The reason you don't want them in the hand is in case one
of them gets lucky on the flop.)

Second, I get to see what my opponents do AFTER the flop...
before I have to act.

This is a HUGE advantage. I can get a read on everyone
else's hand... and NO ONE gets a read on mine. Use this
advantage EVERY chance you get.

And third, my bet gives me relative control over the
table... and is likely to result in a free card if I want
one.

Let's say the flop hits: 9-10-2

That gives me an open-ended straight draw with my Q-J.

There's a good chance my opponents will CHECK, because they
anticipate another bet from me.

So I'm in a win-win situation...

I can throw out a semi-bluff bet... or... I can see a free
card by checking.

Getting control over the board also puts me in a position to
buy the pot if I sense weakness at the table.

Which brings me to another point...

Positioning is a fundamental part of Texas Holdem, but you
had better have a good read on your opponents in order to
win the hand.

And you'd better know the right size to make your bets...
and what to do if there's a draw on the board... and how to
bluff if you get into trouble.

Play Online Poker

Rant And Rave

First off I want to start out with the rant and get it out of the way. It seems like the more I pay attention to it the more weird this becomes, I have a lot of friends I rail and I play a lot myself, and the more I look at it the more I see KQ winning pots win it shouldn't. Yesterday I see my friend push all in with AA guy calls more then half his stack with KQ off flop comes AJ5 rainbow, 6 on the turn, and 10 on the river, this was in a $11 18 player SNG two spots away from money. Today I had AK and a LAG player goes all in I call he is returned 1K in chips, flop comes A5Q turn Q and river 9, now I am not complaining at all, I am just curious to why so many people will risk their tournament life with KQ, I mean dont get me wrong in the right position its great, but to push all in out of position is just mad but I see it done so many times on so many different levels. The funny thing is when I get short stacked and I get KQ in pos and I push all in and get called by a pp or a random ace I cant seem to win, same goes for most of my friends....lol.

Ok now that I have gotten my little spat out about KQ, let me go on to my rave. I am coming up on my 3rd year of playing online poker for real money, and I am very excited about this, I started playing for fun, and to this day I still have as much fun as I did. I am also going to stop playing turbo tourneys, I realize I am a better player and turbo tourneys are like bingo...and I am no good at bingo.

Thanks for reading, best of luck to you all! Have a blessed day and a blessed week!

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BankRoll Mangement

Please be very aware this article is purely a recommendation of sound Bankroll Management.



There are lots of variations of what should be considered as correct/sound Bankroll Management and who is to say which ones are more accurate and successful than others. In this article I will try to express one of the more efficient and successful recommendations that winning players might adhere to.

Even the best poker players in the world are followers of strict Bankroll Management and regard it as a skill and an essential part of their armoury, without it they could be likened to a sniper without a gun and wouldn't be able to function to the best of their ability. Without proper bankroll management ( BRM ) it is very likely that even the best of the best would eventually go broke.

Variance is the key word you should consider if you want to be a winning poker player, it is the ups and downs, the highs and the lows, the good and bad runs of cards you will experience over time ( In the long run ) and the only way to successfully ride out these storms would be to incorporate sound BRM.

BRM is mostly about playing within your limits and protecting your bankroll ( BR ) so that you can continue to play poker within your comfort zone and without the fear of going broke. It is also about "In the long run" meaning winning poker players are very aware of the "upswings and downswings" that they can experience over a long period of time and skillful money management comes into play.

Playing within your limits would now become a vital ingredient to any kind of success so lets take a look at a recommended BRM guide for Texas Holdem and the three main variations of it. Those variations being No Limit Holdem/Pot Limit Holdem ( cash games ), Limit Holdem ( cash games ), and Tournament/Sit & Go Holdem.

Cash games playing NL/PL Holdem

One safe recommended BR for cash games playing NL/PL Holdem would be 20 times the maximum ( max ) buy-in, so to stand a good chance of making money at say a $0.50/$1.00 table where the max buy-in would be $100 your BR should be $2000 or better.

This would also equate to 5% of your BR as it works out the same as the above example. * Bare in mind that if you intend to play poker as your main source of income then other elements need to be considered. A much higher BR would be needed here as you would have to take into account living expenses etc.

**Another thing to be considered is if you are playing short handed, the orbits will come around more frequently than at a full ring table and you will inevitably be involved in more pots so perhaps an added 25% of buy-ins might be needed here.

*** Your playing style might also determine a different amount of buy-ins. If you are a tight player then perhaps you could slightly dip under the recommended amount of buy-ins because you would more often than not only be risking your money when you are in very good shape. Alternatively, if you are a loose player then perhaps you might want to consider a higher amount of buy-ins because variance and swings would come into play much more often.

Consider points (*) (**) (***) with all three Texas holdem variations.


Limit Texas Holdem

If you are a Limit Holdem player then a recommendation of 300 "Big Bets" is a good yard stick to work from. This would mean that if you played at the $2/$4 limits then you would need to have a BR of $1200 or more.

Tournaments and Sit & Go

A recommendation here would be to have a BR of at least 40 buy-ins. So say for instance you wanted to play $5.00+$0.50 S&G's or tournaments then you would need a BR of $220 or more.


Lets re-cap briefly this recommended BRM guide before I show you a more comprehensive chart type guide.

Cash NL/PL = 20 buy-ins
Cash Limit = 300 Big Bets
Tourns/S&G = 40 buy-ins

CHART


Cash NL/PL

5c/10c = $200
10c/20c = $400
25c/50c = $1,000
$0.5/$1 = $2,000
$1/$2 = $4,000
$2/$4 = $8,000
$5/$10 = $20,000
$10$/20 = $40,000
$25/$50 = $100,000
$50/$100 = $200,000

Limit Holdem

5c/10c = $30
10c/20c =$60
25c/50c = $150
$0.5/$1 = $300
$1/$2 = $600
$2/$4 = $1200
$5/10 = $3000
$10/$20 = $6000
$25/$50 = $15000

Tourns/S&G

$1.00 + $0.10 = $44
$2.00 + $0.20 = $88
$5.00 + $0.50 = $220
$10.00 + $1.00 = $440
$20.00 + $2.00 = $880
$30.00 + $3.00 = $1320
$40.00 + $4.00 = $1760
$50.00 + $5.00 = $2200
$100.00 + $10.00 = $4400
zinzan1000- From www.btdpokerforum.com

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