Tuesday, June 30, 2009

There Are No Friends at the Poker Table

There Are No Friends at the Poker Table

Yes, it's true. I would check-raise my own mother if it meant that I could beat her for all of her chips. The same holds true for my brother, my golf buddies,
and any professional poker player friends of mine.

Frankly, that's the only way to act at the poker table.

At the World Series of Poker, players are randomly seated at one of many tables. In past years, though, exceptions were made in special circumstances. For example, if a husband and wife were seated at the same table, one of the two would be moved to another table.

However, if both players happened to make the final table, then obviously they'd have to play there, which can make for an unpleasant situation.

Along these lines, there is one form of cheating that you may not be aware of. In fact, you might be doing it yourself.

Have you ever been in a poker tournament and decided to take it easy on a buddy who was down on his luck?

Let's say, you had the absolute nut hand, but checked to him because you didn't want to beat him. That’s cheating. That may sound harsh, but it's the truth. Even though you might not see any harm in it, and your intentions are all well and good, soft playing your friends is a form of collusion. It’s called team play.

Soft playing really is a big deal. If you’re caught doing it in a tournament, whether it was intentional or not, you might receive a penalty. Tournament officials can put you in the penalty box for an allotted amount time or even disqualify you from the tournament.

More often than not, the offending player doesn't feel like he's cheating. He just doesn't understand why it's wrong to take it easy on somebody.

Tournaments generally pay ten percent of the field. Survival is critical; the longer you’re alive in a tournament, the closer you get to cashing in on a payday. By slow playing and not betting your strong hands against a friend, you’re hurting every remaining player’s chance of cashing in.

Let's look at an extreme example to help illustrate why this practice has no place in poker.

It's a No Limit Hold'em tournament where the top 27 players are in the money; there are currently 28 remaining. The next player eliminated gets nothing at all – the infamous bubble.

Now, suppose you’re the chip leader, in the big blind, and have a huge stack. The blinds are at 500-1,000. Your buddy, conversely, is the shortest stack with just 1,500 in chips. He decides to go all-in, raising you a measly 500 more. You look down at your cards and see A-K.

With your big slick, it's very likely you’ll eliminate your buddy if you call. In fact, even if you were dealt 2-7 offsuit, it would still be correct to call, based on pot odds.

However, let's say you decide to be a nice guy and let him have the 1,500 in blinds, allowing him to double his chips to 3,000. Well, you've just cheated all the other players in the tournament.

If your pal now happens to make it into the money, he'll be taking a spot that likely should have been someone else's. Sure, giving the pot away didn't hurt you much, but by letting your buddy have it, you've made a world of difference to his stack, and to the integrity of the game.

Poker isn’t a team sport. It's every player for himself, and it simply has to be that way. I realize that it can be uncomfortable to knock out your friends, but the alternative is flat out cheating. It's your responsibility to play hard against all of your opponents, even if you have a relationship with them.

If you want to do your friends a favor, don't do it at the poker table. Take them out for a beer if you win the tournament. In fact, buy them dinner.

What you can't do, though, is give anybody a break -- ever.

© 2009 Card Shark Media. All rights reserved.

Sunday, June 28, 2009

Pocket Jacks Part 1: Pre-Flop Play

Pocket Jacks Part 1: Pre-Flop Play

By Sean Lind

(196 votes)
James Honeybone
A pair of jacks ... get it?
The one hand that gives beginners more trouble than ace-king or even ace-queen has to be pocket jacks.

JJ is such a trouble hand that most beginners actually hate having it dealt to them.

All of these players get a twinge of excitement when they see the pair of jacks they've been dealt, reveling in the knowledge of holding a top 5 hand.

This euphoria is typically short-lived once they remember their less-than-stellar track record with it.

Faulty Pre-Flop Play

Oftentimes beginners will overraise JJ pre-flop, raising 20BB or more. The idea is to win the pot without having to see a flop (no flop = no choices to make, and no chance to lose money), or get called and assume the other player has a higher pair.

Occasionally beginners open-push the hand, unwilling to make any decisions (they must be Yakshi readers). This is obviously a flawed approach, although the logic used to make the move seems solid.

They almost never lose the pot when they make this move, making their win-loss ratio for the hand staggeringly high. And while this logic is absolutely sound, unfortunately for these players it fails to take into account some fundamental poker concepts.

Every time they do win this way, they rarely win more than just the blinds (occasionally they'll pick up some limped money as well). When they lose however, they lose their stack.

If you buy in for 100BB (standard to most cash games), and you win the blinds eight times (8 x 1.5 = 12BB) for every one loss (-100BB), you end up losing 9.8BB ((12 - 100)/9 = -9.8BB) every time you make this move.


Dan Harrington talks alot about middle hands in his books.

(Where did the 8-1 ratio come from? You have a 1-220 chance of being dealt any specific pocket pair. Your chances of being dealt aces, queens or kings are three times as great: 3-220.

There are nine other players on the table on a full 10-player ring game, giving total odds of 27-220 (1-8) for one player to have one pocket pair higher than JJ.)

The idea here is not to get exact numbers, as there are flaws in this equation. For example, what about all the times JJ sucks out and beats the overpair? This will account for about one win out of every 10 losses, a total BB/hand change of about 1.2BB.

We're also assuming that every time a player has QQ or better, they are making the call.

Rather than nail down the numbers precisely, this example drives home the concept that this play loses money every time it's made. How much money is irrelevant. It's a perfect example of way ahead or far behind. The only hands that ever call you are the ones that have you beat.

The sole exception to this will be the rare times you get a player making the call with A-K (or even A-Q). In the long run the win-vs.-loss ratio of JJ against A-K about evens out, making this scenario moot in this context.

Check out the links at the bottom of this piece for ideas on how to play A-K or A-Q, and for an explanation of why calling with either hand in this situation is a mistake.

Pre-Flop Choices

Now that we've removed the idea of overraising or open-pushing the hand pre-flop, we can begin to explore some more suitable, and profitable, solutions to the problem.

Poker is truly a situational game. If you replayed the same hand multiple times, each player receiving the same cards without any memory of what happened the previous deals, you would play the same hand differently every time depending on a few variables:

  • Your position at the table
  • Your position relative to any "extreme players"
  • The position of the other big hands at the table
  • Chaos theory whims and anomalies

The most obvious of all of these is your position at the table. It's simple to understand that you will need to play the JJ differently if you're under the gun than if you're on the button.

Better position = more knowledge. Knowledge is worth money, money is power; then when you get the power, you get the woman.


Limit players have a better feel for the true strength of JJ than exclusively No-Limit players.

Extreme players will change how you play your hand. If you have a player moving all-in blind almost every hand, how you play your hand will change depending on if that player acts before or after you in that hand - regardless of your true position on the table.

If one of the other hands dealt is A-K, how you play your jacks will change dramatically depending on whether A-K plays before or after you. If it's before they will most likely take the lead; if they play after you, they will most likely follow you.

Chaos theory is applicable to almost all scenarios, not just in poker. Run the exact same hand twice, without changing a single variable, and chances are the hand will run exactly the same as it did the first time. This is true for almost every time you rerun the hand.

But every so often something will change. A player will suddenly get "creative" and do something out of the ordinary.

It gets the name "chaos" because there is no way to predict how or when the events will happen. There are some amazing mathematical minds doing astounding work in chaos, proving that even some of the most seemingly random events actually belong to a pattern.

The idea with jacks pre-flop is to gain information on the other hands. If no one has a higher pair, you have the most equity; thus if you open-raise, your raise is a value raise. If there are players with a higher pair, your raise serves as an information raise.

If there is a raise ahead of you, you have two choices. Call and make your decisions post-flop without any (or much more) information, or make a three-bet pre-flop. If you get moved in on it's an easy fold, but if you get called you're now playing a very large pot, most likely with a dominated hand.

Moving all-in against a raise pre-flop is similar to the early example of moving all-in with jacks. In this scenario you're more often dominated (since the raise typically means the other player has a good hand), so moving in here is a very -EV play.

More often than not, you want to be raising this hand pre-flop: you want to take control of the pot, but at the same time you want to keep the pot small.

Your goal with jacks, in a full-ring cash game, should never be to get it all-in unimproved. To keep the pots small, you want to check and call at certain points during the hand, rather than betting and raising at every opportunity.

Unfortunately it's not always apparent whether you have the best hand or not going to the flop. Jacks are simply one pair, with three ranks of cards higher than them.

Even as an overpair, jacks are still classified as a "small pot hand." Your best bet with unimproved jacks is to control the pot - keep it small and manageable.

In the next article we'll take a look at the numbers, cementing in your mind the statistical power of jacks. Part three of the series will finish by exploring post-flop play and where jacks stand in a tournament setting.

Saturday, June 27, 2009

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Thursday, June 25, 2009

Ace-Queen Part 3: Some Ideas on Play

Ace-Queen Part 3: Some Ideas on Play

By Sean Lind

(170 votes)
Daniel Negreanu The final installment of a three-part article. After all the talk of where A-Q stacks up according to the numbers, we can now make decisions on how to play it.

The Middle Hand

As explained in other articles, such as Big Hand, Small Pot Part 2: The Middle Hand, it never makes sense to bet the middle hand. This is an example of that sort of scenario. A-Q is a high middle in the world of playable hands, but it is still in the middle nonetheless.

Players new to poker are quick to pick up that A-Q is a top 5% hand, and feel that that number alone should make it a profitable play. But without the necessary skill, experience and ability to read other players, playing A-Q in early position - or for very new beginners, even playing A-Qo at all - can be a losing play.

Players such as Daniel Negreanu have openly talked about A-Q losing them money long-term and being a trouble hand. But that doesn't mean they won't play it. Being a top 5% hand, it is statistically profitable, but only if you can dump it when you run into the lose-money scenarios.


Forget ace-queen; what about ace-Gene?

How to Play A-Q

I started writing this article to try and hammer out some good ideas and guidelines on how to play the hand. Unfortunately, I don't think it's possible to explain in print. From everything I've explained in this article, it becomes clear that to play A-Q profitably, it's a purely situational hand.

You have to play it differently, or not at all, depending on the table you're on and the players you're with. If you're up against nine players who will only play top-five hands, A-Q is a losing hand. If you're up against players who will play any two cards, the numbers will back up A-Q to make you money.

How you play A-Q on Titan Poker may be completely different to how you would play A-Q on PokerStars.

No matter how you play it, you need to be making information plays. You need some way to get a solid read on what you're up against. It's better to lose two bets pre-flop, or on the flop, than to lose eight bets across five streets.

Early Position

In my first year of poker I quickly noticed A-Q as being a trouble hand for me, and began to experiment with different ways of playing it.

One of the ways I experimented was to limp-reraising A-Q from early position. If your No. 1 goal is to gain information about the other hands, this can be a great way to do it at a low-medium limit No-Limit table (click here for a list of top online rooms offering these limits).

With the amount of strength shown by a limp reraise, you can be sure the other player has a hand that dominates you if they call or come back over the top. In these scenarios you lose three bets, compared to losing one where you miss, or a stack when you hit a setup flop.

One thing to remember with this play, and any information play, is the motives you had for making the play in the first place. If the person does call you after making the limp reraise, you have to sign right off, and be willing to dump the hand, no matter what the flop (other than flopping broadway).

Even flopping top two in this scenario will put you at risk of losing your stack against two of the top-five hands, winning nearly nothing against KK, and winning small to a stack against A-K. Remember, with the strength you showed pre-flop, A-K will be less likely to pay you out on an A-Q2 board. Chances of you having AA or QQ are very real, making it a hard call for them to make.

Making this move is only a good idea against ABC players. ABC players will react to this move exactly in-line with the strength of the hand they're holding.

If you attempt this move against tricky players, you can put yourself into poor spots. For example, if you make this move against a player known to raise, bet, call and three-bet light, you will gain no information going to the flop.

You have now built a statistically very large pre-flop heads up pot, with no information in the hand. This makes post-flop decisions very difficult. Against such a player, if you think hitting your ace or queen is good, the size of the pot will dictate how much it will sting if you're wrong.


Sometimes, the best choice is just to fold.

Late Position

As in all other aspects of poker, the single most important factor next to the strength of your hand is playing your position.

In late position, I would advocate raising an unopened pot with A-Q almost every time. It is a top 5% hand, and if no one is showing strength, it is most likely best. If you are behind a raiser, it has to be a read-based play. Against anyone resembling a tight player, it wouldn't be a mistake to muck the hand.

Even if the raiser is a nutbar, you have to remember that even nutbars get dealt monster hands, and they will be raising those just like all the rest. Playing A-Q in a raised pot is a purely read-based scenario. If you're at a table where you are outmatched, A-Q is better left in the muck, than in your hand.

Even though I would advocate limp-reraising with A-Q in certain situations, I would rarely, if ever, encourage reraising from late position with it. Your reraise is going to force everyone else in the hand to fold to the original raiser, isolating them and you.

Good players here can smooth-call virtually any hand to either set a trap, set up a bluff, or try tocrack you. You won't gain enough information from a good player in this scenario to make it a valuable play.

I don't like to have to count on luck to make my hand profitable. Smooth-calling a raise is obviously a poor option. You have no information on the hand by making this move, and are putting yourself into the exact scenarios I listed earlier. Those ended as -EV.

I feel that A-Q is better mucked behind a raise without having a serious read on the other players at the table. If you're able to read them blind, then having A-Q is irrelevant, as your cards no longer matter.

Afterthoughts

A-Q is by far the biggest trouble hand in poker. For this reason alone, unless you have a good reason, and a good spot to play it, it's best left mucked.

I would be interested to get your feedback on this article, and your thoughts on A-Q. If you have any comments to make, questions or whatnot, post comments on this page, or jump into our forum.

Ace-Queen Part 2: The True Value

Ace-Queen Part 2: The True Value

By Sean Lind

(91 votes)
Doyle Brunson Part two of a three-part article on the biggest trouble hand in poker. This article will turn A-Q into a long-term winning hand for the serious player.

In part one of this three-part series I discussed the statistical strength of A-Q, and began to look into where it stands at a full table. Here in part two I'll get into more depth on its full-ring-game status.

A-Q's Sticking Points

I'm going to run some scenarios by you here. I'm not worried about getting exact with math - these are meant to be generalizations.

If you raise A-Q pre-flop, you will be up against four different categories of hands:

  1. Hands that have A-Q dominated
  2. Hands that A-Q dominates
  3. Coin flips
  4. Rags

1. Hands that have A-Q dominated: AA, KK, QQ, A-K


Allen Cunningham used A-Q to knock out 5th place finisher Justin Bonomo in last night's WSOPC Las Vegas.

We can put our A-Q win rate at 0% for AA, KK and QQ. You should be raised out of the pot pre-flop. If you do somehow see a flop, you lose somewhere around 90% the time on average. The big pots you win will be canceled out by the big pots you lose when flopping A-Q against aces or queens.

With A-K it's a little trickier. Let's say you get raised out pre-flop 50% of the time. The other 50% of the time you're seeing variety of flops:

• Ace-high board: you lose significant money

• Queen-high board: you win small money

• A-Q-high board: you win significant money

• A-Q-K high board: you lose significant money

• Flopping straights: you make medium - large money

• Flopping straight draws: you lose medium money

• Flops that miss you: you lose small money

If you just look at the options, you'll see that all the results work to almost cancel each other out. The problem with my little list is that we haven't weighted the options with probability. The odds of you missing everything are by far the highest.

The odds of an ace-high board are more than double those of an A-Q-high board.

The odds of flopping a straight are half those of flopping a straight draw.

Once you weight it, you'll see that A-Q vs. A-K is a very negative EV proposition. Not only do you lose 50% off the bat, out of the other 50% you lose considerable money. This makes our first group of hands less than a 0% win rate, or -EV.

2. Hands that A-Q dominates: A-J, K-Q, A-T, Q-J

All of these hands are similar to the scenario as the A-Q vs. A-K, but in reverse. You dominate all these hands. The only difference is that these hands are weaker, making them more likely to fold to you pre-flop, and less likely to play heavy after the flop. You make less money against any one of these than you lose against A-K.

Collectively they become more profitable than your losses against A-K. This makes the second group of hands a +EV scenario with a positive win rate.

3. Coin Flips: 22-JJ

Even though 22-77 are not in the top 20 hands, in a cash game it still can make sense to see lots of flops with them. People will be calling your single raise with these hands. These are the possible scenarios on the flop (excluding random flushes and straights winning/losing to boats):

  • You both flop nothing
  • You flop top pair
  • Your opponent hits a set, you hit nothing
  • You hit top pair or better, your opponent hits a set

When you both flop nothing, I'm going to put it at a 50% win rate. Half the time the player has a low enough pair they will fold; the other half they don't, and won't.


All this information becomes moot when playing a Gus Hansen style of poker.

Where you flop the top pair, and they miss, they fold. The times they do call and hit a set vs. the times they do call and miss will even out in the long run.

They hit a set, you hit nothing. You fold.

You hit top pair, they hit a set. You lose significant money.

For the third series of hands, you lose significant money on the whole. There are no scenarios where you will win big pots consistently, but there is a scenario where you will lose them.

If you hit a straight vs. a set, you will win a big pot, but the amount of times you win vs. the times you lose when the board pairs cancel each other out.

4. Rags

These hands all fold to you pre-flop, giving you a 100% win rate, but yielding almost no money.

The Results

  1. Hands that have A-Q dominated: -EV (medium loss)
  2. Hands that A-Q dominates: +EV (medium win)
  3. Coin flips: -EV (large loss)
  4. Rags: +EV (very small win)

In all of the scenarios listed, the calculations reveal A-Q's potential for losing significant money in the long run. You have no ability to control what type of hands the other players will be playing against you, forcing you into many -EV situations with A-Q.

The final aspect to discuss is flushes. A-Q suited hitting a flush will have the nuts. The small pots you win will cancel out with the small losses you take chasing and missing (with acceptable odds). When you do hit the flush, you win small to very big pots.

I feel that this aspect of A-Q suited is enough to push the win rate out of the red and into the black. If you only ever played A-Qs in ABC poker against solid ABC players, it would be +EV and A-Qo would be -EV. A combination of both of them should come out somewhere around even.

If you are able to avoid running into sour situations, and only play the pots that are good for you with A-Q, being the top 5% hand it is, it has the potential to make some serious coin.

In the final part of this article, I'll go through some ideas of how to play A-Q. After all, all of this information is useless without a way to put it to use.

Ace-Queen Part 1: The Worst Best Hand

Ace-Queen Part 1: The Worst Best Hand

By Sean Lind

(109 votes)
Daniel Negreanu Ladies, gentlemen and everything in between, it's time we face the music and stop overplaying ace-queen.

Daniel Negreanu used to call A-Q "1.4," named after how many million he has lost with it.

It is singlehandedly the biggest trouble hand in poker. A-Q is a Top 10 hand, but is not a premium hand. That distinction must be clear before we go any further.

Here are a couple of Top 10 Hold'em starting-hand lists for full tables:

Hellmuth's Top 10

Caro's Main Top 10

1. AA

2. KK

3. QQ

4. A-K suited

5. JJ

6. 10-10

7. 9-9

8. 8-8

9. A-Q suited

10. 7-7

1. AA

2. KK

3. QQ

4. J-J

5. A-K suited

6. A-Q suited

7. 10-10

8. A-K offsuit

9. K-Q suited

10. A-J suited

Hellmuth's mix is founded on a combination of probability, poker experience and feel, while Caro's list is strictly mathematics. Caro has three Top 10 starting-hand lists, one for full tables, one for heads-up, and one main list working as an average for the two.


The Poker Brat

The difference to notice between the two lists is the placement of A-Q by both players. Mathematically A-Q should end up in sixth place. It's the trouble-hand aspects of A-Q which have caused Hellmuth to demote A-Q down his list to No. 9.

A premium hand is one of the top five hands in this list. The order of the Top 5 isn't the same on both lists, but the hands are.

How to play the different hands pre-flop is covered in some other articles on the site, mainly this one: Hold'em Before the Flop: A Beginner's Guide. If you're a beginner, start here.

From this point on I'm going to assume you're an intermediate to advanced player, with the ability to make reads and tricky plays, and that you're confident enough to play marginal hands from mid position.

How A-Q Stacks Up

No matter what charts you use, A-Q suited is in the top 10. The first thing to accept is that A-Q suited is not a top 10 hand, but does make it into the top 20.

If you played ABC poker by following a chart of hands, A-Q suited (A-Qs) is one you would never play in early position, and would only play in an unraised or unopened pot in middle to late.

Being in the top 20 hands means that A-Qs and A-Qo are in the best 10% of possible starting hands. Of all the possible starting hands, only 5.85% of all possible hands are equal in strength to A-Qo, or stronger than it. A-Qs is only beat by 3.77% of all possible starting hands.

The average for A-Q is 4.81%. For this article we're going to use 5% as our number.

One thing to know about poker is that your math and odds only have to be close. If you can get it within a percent or two, that's all you need to know.

As long as your decisions are +EV, the true amount doesn't matter. Being 64% or 65% to hit makes no difference to the hand or how you'll play it; don't sweat the exact math.

Should You Raise?

Playing ABC poker, you will only ever be playing the top 20 starting hands. Just under 10% of the possible hands you can be dealt are playable in an ABC game.

On average you should be playing one hand per orbit, three hands per hour in live poker. Online poker play will have up to three times more hands dealt per hour on a single table.

If only 5% of hands are better than your A-Q, the odds are you have the most hand equity. With the most equity, you should be raising, and pumping the pot.

If only 10% of hands are playable, and this is in the middle of those playable ones, it should by all means be played, and be played hard.


Ladies and gentlemen, Mike Caro!

Unfortunately, poker isn't as straightforward as this. Things are never quite as obvious as they seem.

A great example I learned reading Mike Caro's new book Caro's Most Profitable Hold'em Advice: Years ago, before people really began to study poker, there was very little scientific advice and knowledge about the game.

At this point in poker's life, many top players believed that J-T suited was the best starting hand in poker. It was the highest suited connector possible with full straight potential. It doesn't "dead end" on the top end as Q-J would.

If we look at A-Q only in the context of how it stacks up in the hand charts, I think we'll be missing some important aspects to the hand, working on only half-truths.

The truth is simple and obvious if we look at results from poker experience: A-Q does not win 95% of the time.

In the next article we'll continue dissecting A-Q, adding some more insight to the true value of the hand, and in part three we'll follow up with some suggestions on how to play it.

Preflop Play In Pot Limit Hold EM

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The unique betting structure of Pot-Limit Hold ‘em tournaments makes raising before the flop a tricky proposition. You need to be aware of the crucial difference this makes between Pot-Limit and No-Limit Hold ‘em and in this week’s tip, Rafe Furst shows you how to make the necessary adjustments to your game.


191

Preflop Play in Pot-Limit Hold’em Tournaments

Rafe Furst

June 24th, 2009

To succeed in Pot-Limit Hold ‘em tournaments, No-Limit Hold ‘em players need to make certain adjustments to their game. Perhaps the biggest modification you need to make is to recognize the importance of being the second raiser before the flop rather than the first, a change necessitated in large part by Pot-Limit’s unique betting structure.

If you’re the first player to move all-in before the flop in a No-Limit tournament, you will have a huge advantage over your opponents because, according to David Sklansky’s “Gap Concept,” you need a much better hand to call a raise than you do to make a raise. Taking advantage of this discrepancy, experienced No-Limit players are able to steal enough pots late in tournaments to keep themselves alive.

However, in Pot-Limit tournaments, you can’t make this play because you can bet no more than the size of the pot at any one time; unless you’re short-stacked, you won’t be able to get all your chips into the pot with an initial raise. In this situation the advantage goes to the second player to raise before the flop because such a raise will often be big enough to force all but the very best hands to fold.

Therefore, whenever you raise before the flop in a Pot-Limit Hold ‘em tournament, you need be prepared to get re-raised for all your chips. It’s very similar to boxing in that every time you make a punch you’re opening yourself up to a counterpunch. Every time you put in a raise, you need to be willing to go all the way with your hand. If you’re unwilling to do this, then you shouldn’t have made that opening raise in the first place.

Here’s an example of how difficult it is to be the first raiser in a Pot-Limit Hold ‘em tournament. Let’s say that you have 13,000 chips in your stack, the blinds are 500/1,000 and you pick up A-Q under the gun. In No-Limit you could just shove your entire chip stack into the pot and you’d probably win the blinds and antes, but in Pot-Limit the most you can bet in this situation is 3,500, leaving you vulnerable to a re-raise. If someone sitting behind you makes it 12,000 to go, you’re going to be faced with a very difficult decision, having to call with the last of your chips with a hand that could easily be dominated. Even though your opponent might have a hand as weak as K-Q, you’d be wise to muck your cards and wait for a better spot.

Here’s another example, which shows just how powerful being the second raiser is in Pot-Limit. With three players left in the 1,500 Pot-Limit Hold ‘em event at the 2006 World Series of Poker, Eric Lynch raised three times the big blind from the button, and I picked up A-Q in the small blind. Normally being in the small blind is considered very bad position; but because of the nature of Pot-Limit Hold ‘em, being in early position can actually give you an advantage over the players sitting behind you.

In this instance, Eric’s initial raise allowed me to make a very large re-raise and if he had come over the top of my bet, I was going to be right there with him. He just called, but I still really liked my situation. I knew the flop was going to miss him two-thirds of the time, so I figured I could lead out with a bet no matter what the flop was and two-thirds of the time he would be forced to fold. Add to that the possibility that I might actually hit an Ace or Queen on the flop and I felt really good about moving all in on the flop no matter what it brought, which is exactly what I did.

The advantage the second raiser has over the first has the biggest impact on players with short stacks. If you’re playing No-Limit and you’ve got a short stack, you should be looking to move all-in the first chance you get in an effort to steal the blinds and antes and keep yourself afloat, but making this move in Pot-Limit requires a much more specific scenario. You need to wait for an opponent to make an opening raise and that player needs to be capable of laying down a big hand in the face of an all-in re-raise. Once your stack dips below eight or nine big blinds, however, you can stop looking for opportunities to re-raise and instead start making the initial raise with hands you’re willing to go all the way with if someone comes over the top of your raise.

As you can see, the unique betting structure of Pot-Limit Hold ‘em tournaments makes putting in the first raise before the flop a tricky proposition. If you want to be successful in these tournaments, you need to be aware of this crucial difference from No-Limit Hold ‘em tournaments and make the necessary adjustments to your game.

The Rematch

Eastgate vs. Demidov: The Rematch

Eastgate vs. Demidov: The Rematch

Peter Eastgate vs. Ivan Demidov was one of the classic World Series of Poker* Main Event confrontations, and now PokerStars is recreating that epic encounter with an online grudge match. Heads-up poker is the purest form of the game and this battle is set to be another classic - and you get involved too, by playing in our fan tournaments. Ladies and Gentlemen, we bring you Eastgate vs. Demidov: The Rematch. Let’s get ready to rumble!

At stake are bragging rights and $10,000 to the charity of the winner’s choice. You can take part too and show your support for the player that you think will win, by playing in one of two fan tournaments. One tournament will be for players that think Eastgate will win, and the other for people that think Demidov will win. The winner’s tournament will have $10,000 added, so you can win cash as well as support your favorite player. Who do you think will win?

These two Team PokerStars Pros first met back in November last year, as the final two players from a field of 6,844 in the WSOP* $10,000 World Championship Main Event in Las Vegas. This rest was history, as the young Dane Eastgate scooped the second biggest prize in the history of poker - $9,152,416, while Demidov took home $5,809,595 for second place.

This Rematch will recreate that clash by replicating the Main Event conditions. The two players will begin with the same stacks that they had in Vegas, and the blind structure will be the same too. Will Eastgate underline his superiority by winning again? Can Demidov set the record straight and even the score? It’s time to find out.

How to play

The fan tournaments have a $11 buy-in and take place June 26 at 14:15 ET, and are followed by Eastgate vs. Demidov: The Rematch at 18:00 ET on the same day. You can register for the fan tournaments by selecting ‘Tourney’ and ‘Special’ in the PokerStars lobby. The heads-up match will be there too, so make sure you open that table and watch the action unfold.

Both fan tournaments will have the standard PokerStars 15% payout structure, but the winner’s tournament will also have $10,000 added to the prize pool, with the top 100 finishers splitting the money, receiving $100 each. Please note this extra cash will be credited to players’ accounts 24 hours after the tourney.

If you have any questions about Eastgate vs. Demidov: The Rematch please contact support@pokerstars.com.

Monday, June 22, 2009

Ace-King Part 3: Playing the Hand

Ace-King Part 3: Playing the Hand

By Sean Lind

(90 votes)
Ronny Johanson In the final article in the Great Ace-King Series of '08, we'll delve into the pre-flop concepts of three- and four-betting and unearth some theory on how to play the hand.

Pre-Flop Concepts: The Three- and Four-Bet

As mentioned in part two, in most situations, removing post-flop play from your game will in turn remove the majority of profit you could otherwise collect with a hand like A-K.

That means that in a deep-stacked full-ring game, it's rarely a good idea to be three- and four-betting A-K pre-flop.

Unless you're playing with players willing to consistently go three and four bets with less-than-premium hands, it makes little sense to get into a raising war - it will usually result in a pre-flop all-in with A-K.

In ABC poker, a player willing to three- and four-bet has a premium hand, letting you know you're beat. This translates into wanting to conserve the losses and get out cheaply.


Tom Dwan: Master of the light three-bet.

Getting it all-in pre-flop in these situations will have you up against premium hands and coin flips most often, a weaker ace or king in occasional situations, and a 60-40 lead against a hand such as Th Jh.

In the long run you're going to lose significant money in this scenario. A-K is better suited to be played post-flop.

In the context of an online six-max game, the average aggression level is greatly increased. Once the range widens to where players will be making these moves consistently with hands you are ahead of, three- and four-betting and pre-flop pushing can become profitable.

I believe that this idea is taken too far by most players these days. It is true that many online players will three- and four-bet light, meaning your A-K is a monster. But you have to consider this: all but the most aggressive players will still have a fairly narrow range for heavy pre-flop action.

This means you're back to being dominated, or (most often) facing a coin flip, followed by you leading in a 60-40 scenario, and finally, you having a weaker ace or king dominated. These players will make this action every time with the hands that dominate you, and less often with every hand running down from there.

If you take all the coin-flip and 60-40 hands to the flop, you can greatly reduce variance and losses, allowing the situations where you are dominating to help bring your net profit back to where you'd like it to be.

The more aggressive the players are at the table, the more aggressively you can raise and call with A-K. For example, it is rare to see someone play three- or four-bets (or a pre-flop all-in) with a hand like A-Q in a full-ring game (assuming both players have healthy deep stacks).

Once you get into a six-max game, the aggression level rises, and more importantly the stacks are rarely deep. A-Q can, and will, be played with this high-level aggression.

Depending on the player three-betting you, it can be more profitable to call to see a flop in even these high-action games than to push over the top pre-flop.

Pre-Flop Concepts: Post-Flop Poker Takes More Skill

Post-flop actions and decisions require far more skill than playing a push-or-fold pre-flop game. This translates into the more skilled players amassing a greater advantage by taking their opponents to the board, rather than battling them pre-flop.

A weaker player will tend to play more aggressively pre-flop, counting on the money earned from opponent folds to help counter the money lost from being outplayed post-flop.

Many stronger players will try to take both angles - pushing hard pre-flop to take the folded TAG money, yet being willing to battle post-flop against the other LAGs.


Phil Ivey: Post-flop pro.

These players are the ones dominating the online world. TAG players are forced to fold their stacks away, or play a game they are not accustomed to or skilled at.

The other LAGs are forced to pit their skill on skill. When they lose to the other LAG, the money lost is "freerolled" from the easy money taken from the TAG players. This is where knowing your opponent makes a very large difference.

If you have a large enough edge, it is in your best interest to play the hand after the flop. This is why Phil Ivey is seen calling, rather than raising, far more often than almost any other top player.

He truly believes (and rightfully so) that he has the skill advantage after the flop. If he allows you to change the game into a push-or-fold match, he loses his edge, falling victim to the cards.

With the majority of players willing to battle heavily pre-flop, you get into a game of the best hand winning most often. Moving your play post-flop brings bluffing back into the game, allowing you to win with the lesser hand more often.

When playing A-K, you have one of the best hands in poker; this gives you the edge of having the most equity (in most situations). Again, it's in your best interest to use this edge post-flop.

You can win the majority of hands against a small pocket pair by making strong bluffs post-flop, when you would have lost the flip by pushing pre-flop.

In the hands where you happen to run into a monster such as AA or KK, getting it all-in pre-flop is a seriously -EV choice. Playing it on the flop will allow you to get off of the hand cheaply, as long as you don't flop the case ace for a setup cooler.

Pre-Flop Concepts: Tournament Pushing

Pushing or calling pushes pre-flop with A-K can be the right choice more often than not in a tournament. It actually has little to do with you playing a tournament, and more to do with you playing with and against short stacks.

At the beginning of a major tournament, you would be foolish to get it all-in with A-K pre-flop while sitting 400BB deep. This is where you should maximize wins or conserve losses post-flop. Unfortunately, tournaments rarely stay deep-stacked for very long.

In most online tournaments, players become short-stacked not long after the start. As soon as players become short-stacked, around 10BB or less, they're forced to ramp up their pre-flop aggression. They'll be pushing with a fairly wide range, such as any pair, any ace, any two face cards and any higher suited connector.

At this point, A-K pre-flop is a very profitable hand. You will run into AA and KK now and again, but the range has opened up to a point where it's profitable to get it all-in pre-flop.

Pre-Flop Concepts: Summary

The more aggressive the players, and/or the shorter the stacks, the more aggressive and loose you can get when playing A-K. Even when playing very aggressive players with deep stacks, it can be more profitable to take the play post-flop.

A hyperaggressive loose player may lay down a hand such as Ac Th to a chunk pre-flop, when letting them hit an ace on a flop against your A-K can be enough for them to hang themselves.

When you have the ability to force a weaker player to make their decisions post-flop, you open the door to allow for greater profit by winning some hands you shouldn't, and cutting short the losses on the hands you lose.

Post-Flop Play


Phil Hellmuth would rather lay down A-K pre-flop than get it all in.

These articles have been designed entirely around getting you used to the idea of playing A-K post-flop. Now you have to make the correct choices and moves to actually manipulate the odds in your favor.

You've decided on a range for your opponent's hands pre-flop. Now you have to narrow that range, and play against it accordingly.

When you're ahead of the range, you want to build pots; when you're behind, you want to get out of the hand. By using your surmises about the range of your opponent, you can calculate the outs and odds you have of winning the hand, as well as the odds of successfully bluffing the pot.

A-K is one of the easier hands to play post-flop, but don't let its strength allow you to make weak calls or moves. Playing any hand post-flop successfully hinges mostly on experience.

The more you play A-K post-flop, and the better you become at reading your opponents and the betting story, the more successful you'll become with the hand.

Having read this article, you should now understand the strengths and weaknesses of A-K, and be able to play it with a plan and with thoughtful consideration rather than by feel. Doing so will grow your ability to play the hand profitably much sooner than if you had stuck to playing it by feel.

When playing ace-king, you want to make sure that you're making every action for a reason. Every action has an intended result: figure out what are you trying to accomplish with the action, choose the appropriate action, then evaluate the results.

If the results are not what you had expected them to be, it means your read on the other player or their hand is incorrect. You now start over with a goal, and use your action to accomplish it.

Ace-King Part 2: Making a Profit

Ace-King Part 2: Making a Profit

By Sean Lind

(71 votes)
John Phan In part one of this three-part article, we went over all the numbers that define A-K's strengths and weaknesses. Part two explains how to use this information to your advantage.

If you remember the first chart from article one, you'll know that if it's played dark (meaning you are oblivious to the strength or weakness of your opponents and of yourself in the pot), the EV margin of A-K will hover just above even in a small profit zone.

The hand is strong enough to win the majority of pots it plays, but the majority of those winning pots will be small. The large ones will be negated from the large losses you take against hands such as AA on a cooler flop.

A-K is strong enough to be marginally profitable on its own, but can be much more lucrative with a little help.

The Value of Information

Ironically, poker is a very thoughtful game that is played solely on instinct by the majority of players. Whether you know it or not, you raise for one, two or all three of the following reasons:

  1. To isolate the hand against one or a few opponent/s.
  2. To increase pot size while having the most equity.
  3. To gain information on the other players in the pot.


Valuable information: He's better than you.

When raising with A-K, you are primarily doing it for the third reason, whereas when raising with a hand such as AA, you are doing it for the second. A-K is strong enough to stand, in the long run, against a field of multiple players.

Increasing the pot size isn't a bad idea, but A-K is a drawing hand, meaning you still need to connect with the board to hold on to the equity post flop.

You're raising A-K for information. If you understand why you're raising before you do, instead of arbitrarily raising because you feel you should with the hand, you will have the knowledge and the ability to execute a plan.

When you know you're raising primarily for information, you can time and size your raise amounts accordingly.

Using the Information You Have

If the first step is acquiring the information, the second step will be to use that information to your advantage. This is where you can start to manipulate the long-term odds, increasing the net profitability of the hand.

Assuming you now have the information, it's now up to you to make the correct play. Reads in poker all come as a range. You put your opponent on a range of hands - the better the read, the smaller the range.

If you've made strong information-extracting plays, and have a solid understanding of reading your opponents, you can get the possible range down to a very few hands - even occasionally putting them on a specific hand.

Once you know what your opponent holds, you can adjust your play accordingly. If you put them on AA or KK, you want to shut down in the hand, and conserve. Minimize the losses, and maximize the wins.

Put your opponent on a range of A-Q, A-J, K-Q, and you want to pump the pot, as you have your opponent dominated no matter which of the hands they hold.

This information is invaluable for making properly sized value bets. If you've put your opponent on the previously stated range and the board comes Ks 4h Th 5s 9c, you can take your opponent to value town.

The range is always dynamic; the fact that your opponent is still in the hand (since you're obviously betting on the flop and turn) lets you narrow the range down to the single hand K-Q.

At this point you're able to extract maximum value. If they have you on a range excluding AA and KK, they will not think that the only one hand they lose to is A-K.

Since they only lose to that one hand, they'll commonly convince themselves you have QQ, K-J, JJ or even A-Q. You can make a very decent-sized value bet here with a high expectation of getting paid.

You have to make it your absolute mission to minimize the losses while maximizing the wins with A-K. To do this, you have to correctly decide when to bet, raise, call and fold:

Betting A-K

  • Gain information
  • Increase pot size
  • Force a weaker hand to fold, or pay without odds to catch up
  • Force a small pair to fold the best hand
  • Value betting

Raising A-K

  • Gain information (you typically gain far more information by raising than betting)
  • Value raise, if you feel the opponent has enough of a hand to pay you off
  • Bluff a weaker hand

Calling A-K

  • Pot-size control
  • Set a trap

Folding A-K

  • Concede you're beat

As you can see, calling with A-K is rarely the correct idea. It's only ever done in two specific situations: One, you have the absolute nuts and are setting a trap.


Sometimes folding A-K is the best choice.

A great example of this is on the flop Tc Jh Qs. You can now take a huge chunk out of TT, JJ, QQ, KK, AA, A-Q, A-J, 8-9, K-9, K-Q, Q-J, and Q-T. Many players will hang themselves with most of those hands if you let them.

Two, you believe your opponent is bluffing, but there is a decent chance you are actually beat. In this scenario, where you truly believe your opponent is bluffing, pot control can be crucial. You want to keep the pot small to help discourage continued bluffing, and to minimize your loss if your read is incorrect.

Other than in those two scenarios, you should always be betting, raising or folding A-K. If you're beat, dump it as cheaply as possible. If you're ahead, get money into the pot. It seems simple, doesn't it?

It becomes evident that one of the key themes of A-K is that it's a hand most suited to be played post-flop. There are times where you're going to be making all of your choices with it pre-flop, but without post-flop choices, you are extremely limiting your ability to manipulate the odds of the hand past the original statistics.

In most situations, removing post-flop play from your game will in turn remove the majority of profit you are able to collect with a hand such as A-K.

In part three of the A-K series, we'll get into pre-flop concepts and theory with A-K, and explore how to play A-K in tournaments.

Ace-King Part 1: The Best Drawing Hand

Ace-King Part 1: The Best Drawing Hand

By Sean Lind

(110 votes)
Isabelle Mercier
A-K looks nice, but it can get you in trouble if you don't understand its true equity.
Ask anyone: they'll tell you ace-king, both suited and unsuited, is a premium Hold'em starting hand. So how come it's such a trouble hand for beginners?

As with all the premium hands, the pots you play with A-K are typically going to be larger than average, forcing you to make more frequent and more difficult decisions.

Before you can attempt to formulate strategy for the hand, you're going to need a firm grasp on the real strength of A-K. The best way to do that is by looking at the true equity of the hand in various scenarios.

A-K vs. the World

A-K is a tricky hand, in that the range playing back at it is very wide in its statistical strength. It's much more difficult to know where you stand with A-K than with many other hands. There is no worse spot to be in than not knowing whether hitting the flop will be a good or bad thing.

Because A-K is a drawing hand (meaning it needs to hit the board in some way to be more than just ace-high), many players believe it's best played in pots with multiple players. Since it has to hit to be good anyway, they feel it's desirable to get as much money in the pot as they can.


A-K: a tricky hand for rookies.

The second school of thought is to play A-K like a premium hand, raising heavily to isolate A-K against a single opponent.

Before you go any further with one school or the other, let's take a look at the statistics of A-K against both of these options.

A-K vs. a Single Opponent

The following hands are included in this comparison: AA, KK, QQ, 66, A-Q offsuit, A-Q suited and 7-8 suited.

It makes no sense to run the numbers against every possible hand, so I've chosen the majority of possible situations: overpair, pair under one of your cards, underpair (dead-end), underpair (unhindered), dominated ace and low suited connector.

(All equity calculations courtesy of PokerStove)

Hand Hand % As Ks %
Ad Ah 87.9 12.1
Kd Kh 65.9 34.1
Qd Qh 53.8 46.2
6d 6h 52.1 47.9
Ad Qd 28.7 71.3
Ad Qh 24.4 75.6
7d 8d 39.3 60.7

The first thing to note is this list only gives you a brief glimpse into A-K's equity in this context. The idea wasn't to make a comprehensive list, but to get an idea of where A-K stands pre-flop against one opponent.

Also note that the numbers change by a few percentage points when you change suits around, as shown with the two A-Q examples.

The average equity of As Ks for all of these examples is 49%. This might be surprising, considering that it's a top 5 starting hand. Although this number is accurate, it's a good example of how statistics - even accurate statistics - rarely tell the full truth.

For example, for every time your A-K runs into AA, you're going to have multiple run-ins with hands such as A-Q, A-J, and K-Q. Statistically, you're more likely to run into QQ than KK, and there are more nondominated suited-connector hands than the contents of this list combined.

If you factored in all of the possible hands, and the frequency of playing A-K against them, you would see the A-K average win percentage climb to a very profitable level.

A-K vs. Multiple Opponents

Now to run some equity numbers on how A-K holds up against multiple hands in a single pot. I'm using the same range as I used for the single-opponent calculations, but I will set up a few scenarios.

First, let's start with a direct comparison. We're going to assume that your As Ks got all-in against seven opponents pre-flop, allowing all hands to see a river (unlikely, I know, but this is exclusively for statistical evaluation):

Hand Hand %
As Ks 10.6
Ad Ah 30.8
Kd Kh 8.7
Qd Qh 8.1
6d 6h 15.5
Ac Qc 11
7d 8d 15.2

(You might have noticed that I changed the suits of some cards, and left out the second A-Q example. I had to do this to remove all instances of two players holding the same card at once.)


Mike Caro: Knows the true equity in rum-and-cokes comes multiway.

In this unlikely scenario, A-K is going to win the hand 10% of the time (or 1 in 10). Considering you're only getting 7-1 on your money, this is a -EV scenario. In fact, any scenario that has AA in the mix is going to lose you significant money.

(On a separate note, take a look at AA: a 30% win rate while getting 7-1. It's for this reason players such as Mike Caro believe AA is best played multiway to optimize long-term results.)

If we take a more likely scenario, the numbers will change dramatically. In this scenario we're going to put A-K into a limped pot against the type of hands you'll commonly see all at once. If no one raises, chances are no one is holding AA or KK.

Hand Hand %
As Ks 19.5
Ad Qd 18.6
Ah 9c 2.7
6s 5s 12.5
10h 10c 24.1
3d 3s 15.2
7c 9h 7.4

In this more likely scenario, our suited A-K is 20% to win the pot. We're going to win 1 in 5, while getting 7-1 on our money. Now we're back in the black.

Rock-Bottom Equity

As I mentioned earlier, this first article is exclusively aimed at helping you understand your equity with A-K. The numbers in this article are the control to start from - ground zero.

These numbers are true equity, which is not to be confused with other forms of odds. These numbers only give you an idea of where to start with a hand like A-K. Your goal is to manipulate the numbers and your opponents into giving you better odds on the hand than the base equity offers.


PokerStars pro Dario Minieri: Will seriously mess up your hand odds.

In short: Hand equity is not always the same as the odds. The odds in play are false, due to lack of knowledge. You don't know 100% what your opponent has, and the same goes for them against you.

This means the odds change based on fold equity (your bluffing latitude) and on the choices you make with the knowledge you have.

You have the ability to choose to play or fold the hand. If you fold every time the A-Q hits the queen, and make the call every time your ace hits against KK, you're going to make far more money than the equity predicts.

Another way to think about it: if every time you play your A-K vs. A-Q, you get it all-in for 1,000BBs, and every time you run your A-K into AA, you lose 10BBs, you've just upset the equity predictions.

Even though the equity prediction is accurate in terms of how often you'll win the hand, if you manipulate the amounts of the wins and losses, you make far more money than the equity would appear to allow. (I know this example is clearly not possible; it's just meant to make the concept easy to understand.)

Knowledge and action change odds. If the best and worst basketball teams in the world face off against each other, with the former knowing that they're ridiculous favorites to win, it may well affect their respective play - to the extent even of the lesser team getting the upper hand.

We've all witnessed surprise upsets and underdog victories as a result of this exact scenario. If both teams had gone into the game knowing nothing of their own skill in relation to their opponents' - if both teams believed they were the best - the better team's odds of victory would be almost dead-on accurate.

If you want to blow your noodle with this propensity of odds to defy logic, check out the Monty Hall problem, which in short goes like this: (wording from Wikipedia)

Suppose you're on a game show, and you're given the choice of three doors: Behind one door is a car; behind the others, goats. You pick a door, say No. 1, and the host, who knows what's behind the doors, opens another door, say No. 3, which has a goat. He then says to you, "Do you want to pick door No. 2?"

Statistically, what should you do?


Try and wrap your head around Monty Hall problem and you may throw up a little in your mouth.

Unless you're a very sharp logistician or mathematician (or have heard this problem before), you will assume that it doesn't matter. Two doors, one prize = 50% chance either way.

This is, in fact, incorrect. You should always request he open the "other" door. By doing so, you actually have a 66% chance at winning the car.

The best way to see this is through a chart with all the possible options outlined, as you can see here.

In the next article in this ace-king series, I'll reveal some tactics for actually playing the hand - ways to help shift the odds in your favor.

Until then, swallow these odds and wrap your mind around the concept of odds and equity being somewhat negotiable.